Imane Ayissi - African Haute Couture
Hi Y'all!
We are back into the Series African Designers where I present African fashion designers, who inspire me. Today we are going to discuss Imane Ayissi.
If there is one thing you should know about Imane Ayissi, it is that he is the first (and to this day only) (black) African designer who has showcased at Paris Haute Couture fashion week. If you know anything about Haute Couture, it that it is a very select, very difficult to get in. In fact, to be able to even showcase, one has to follow a certain amount of rules established by the French regulatory body called the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture such as being a member, having an atelier in Paris with a minimum of staff required, making custom fitted clothes, showcasing a collection of 50 handmade quality garments twice a year.
Imane Ayissi was born in 1968 in a West African country, Cameroon. He is a the son of an ex beauty queen, the first crowned Miss Cameroon, and of a champion boxer. He started his career as a ballet dancer, joining the Cameroon National Ballet company. He danced outside of his country in countries such as France and Japan. In the 90s, he moved to Paris and became a model for big fashion houses in the 90s such as Dior, Givenchy, where he got to learn more about designs and fashion.
In 2004, he founded his eponymous fashion house, creating custom pieces for a private clientele. He was also offering ready to wear for both men and women. In 2010, he was invited to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Fashion week. Sponsored by Franccesca Bellettini of the House of Saint Laurent, he returned in 2020 and is now an invited designer at Paris Haute Couture Fashion week.
Imane Ayissi was intrigued by fashion at an early age due to the influence of his mother. He stated in interviews that since she was a flight attendant, she would travel all over the world , and return with beautiful garments. He used to play with those garments, trying to figure out how they were made. He also worked in Cameroon in fashion houses.
What makes Ayissi's garment special is that he incorporates what is considered to be traditional African elements to his Western designs. He is known to use tie dyed fabrics, but also add eco-friendly and natural materials such as raffia to his garments. He is very conscious of environmental issues which is why he prefers to work with natural and hand printed fabrics from the continent, which have very low impact to the environment. He researches the best weaved fabrics from Africa, and even does some upcycling, creating his own version. Moreover, because of his background as a dancer, and his inspiration from great couturiers such as Madame Gres, Balenciaga, he knows about the body and how it moves. Therefore, it gives him an edge in designing simple elegant garments that move beautifully.
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I may or may not have made an Eid garment inspired by this gorgeous look.
Being the only Sub Saharan designer to be invited at Haute Couture week is very important to Ayissi. For him, this privilege shows that this part of the world is no longer excluded from international fashion. In fact, in recent years, we have seen a huge development in fashion in West Africa, and several fashion designers from that part of the continent are being internationally recognized.
Ayissi stills showcase his designs (ready to wear) all over the world and particularly in Africa in places such as Nigeria and South Africa. He is keen to help develop fashion in Africa. He also does not want to be the only African designer at Paris Haute couture. He was a lecturer at the Cameroonian Centre of fashion designers, helping to train the next generation.
at the Bridgerton season 3 screening
Sources:
https://www.imane-ayissi.com/en/about-us/
https://www.ubagroup.com/57-marina/top-5-african-fashion-designers/
https://www.lareserve-mag.com/imane-ayissi-en/
https://www.scadfash.org/exhibitions/imane-ayissi-africa-world
https://connect.industrieafrica.com/designers/imane-ayissi
https://www.burlingtonarcade.com/imane-ayissi/
https://fashionunited.com/news/fashion/imane-ayissi-africa-is-no-longer-excluded-from-international-fashion/2020012031757
https://thefashionstories.com/interview-createur-de-mode/imane-ayissi-defenseur-de-la-creation-africaine/
https://ophelieandela.com/imane-ayissi/
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