The History of Tie Dye

September 07, 2024

The History of Tie Dye

For as long as I can remember, I’ve always been fascinated by Tie and Dye. In fact, I often joke that there isn’t a single tie and dye pattern that I don’t love. Every year, I make it a point to buy at least one new outfit in tie and dye—whether for casual or formal wear. Interestingly, despite my love for this technique, I’m not a fan of the tie-dye t-shirt trend. My focus tends to be on dresses or coordinated sets, with either pants or skirts.

Me in Tie and Dye since 2005

Before diving into its rich history, let’s define what tie and dye is. It’s a fabric dyeing method where certain sections are tightly bound with string or rubber bands to prevent them from absorbing the dye. The material is then immersed in dye, creating unique patterns where the tied areas resist the color, resulting in vibrant, often abstract designs. This technique is used in clothing, textiles, and home décor, producing distinct bursts of color and intricate patterns.

Tie and dye is found in many cultures around the world, and I’ve been fortunate enough to experience it firsthand while living in Japan, India, and, of course, Senegal. While it’s difficult to pinpoint its exact origins, several cultures have long histories with the technique. For instance, India has been using the Bandhani method as far back as 4000 BCE. I adore Bandhani—one of my biggest regrets is not being able to purchase an authentic Bandhani fabric from Gujarat or Rajasthan during my time in India. The term "Bandhani" comes from the Sanskrit word bandh, meaning "to tie". In this process, small sections of fabric are pinched and tied with threads before dyeing, creating a stunning pattern of white dots on colorful fabric. Bandhani holds deep cultural significance and is often worn during festivals and gifted during weddings.

Women making Bandhani

Bandhani Saree

In Japan, Shibori became prominent during the 8th century. The word shibori is derived from the verb shiboru, which means "to wring" or "to squeeze." Shibori is a manual tie-dye technique that produces intricate patterns on fabric by folding, twisting, binding and clamping it. It also possible to sew threads into the fabric to create the patterns. While traditionally associated with indigo dye, Shibori often incorporates a variety of dyes to create complex, sometimes geometric designs.

Shibori

In Africa, Mali is renowned for its tie and dye methods, particularly the Bogolan or Bogolanfini technique, used by the Bambara ethnic group. The word bogolanfini translates to "cloth by means of earth" in their language. This method uses fermented mud for dyeing, combining dyeing, hand-painting, and bleaching to produce intricate designs. Historically, Bogolan was worn by hunters as camouflage and used to wrap women after childbirth or coming-of-age ceremonies.

Bogolan patterns

In Mauritania, the meulfeu is known for its bright colors, while Nigeria’s Adire has gained global popularity in recent years, likely due to the rise of Afrobeats and the influence of Nigerian fashion designers.

In the Western world, tie and dye had its moment during the 1960s and 1970s, particularly with the hippie movement. Tie-dye t-shirts, often emblazoned with peace symbols, became a symbol of anti-establishment and self-expression. In the fashion world, it has seen multiple revivals in the 90s and also in the 2020s.

An ad showing how to make your own tie and dye shirt

Dior Fall 2023 fashion show in Mumbai

In Senegal, tie-dye, or Thioup (also spelled Thiub), has been a prominent tradition for many years. Ethnic groups such as the Sereer, Joola, and Fulani are known for wearing indigo-dyed clothing. Additionally, we highly value the vibrant tie-dyed fabrics from Mali, such as Ganila, a rich fabric characterized by bold colors, often worn during weddings and naming ceremonies. In recent years, lighter cotton-dyed fabrics, such as Maylouss, Meulfeu, Kindilin from Guinea and Kokodunda from Burkina Faso, have gained popularity. Many Senegalese fashion designers are now creating entire collections of modern clothes with these fabrics, much to the delight of their customers. In the past, tie dye was only reserved to special occasions and not for daily wear. Light fabrics and easier dye techniques led to the democratisation of the tie dye, hence making it more affordable.

Wolof family in Saint Louis - 1928

The ladies are wearing what appeared to be tie dye clothes

The Goree shirt from Sisters of Afrika, a Senegalese brand specializing in tie and dye.

I think that Tie and dye will never go out of style. It is timeless. It is also ingrained in so many traditions and cultures. I know for a fact that in my country, tie dye will also be trendy.

Today, tie and dye has evolved significantly. While traditional hand-dyeing techniques are still valued, printed fabrics that mimic tie and dye patterns have become more common due to economic reasons. The tie-dye process is labor-intensive and requires significant time and resources, making it expensive. Many fashion houses opt for printed fabrics that replicate the look of tie-dye to reduce costs. Additionally, tie-dye fabrics often bleed, which can be inconvenient for customers.

Personally, I am torn between the authenticity of traditional tie and dye and the practicality of printed alternatives. While I love the creativity and artistry of true tie and dye, I understand the appeal of printed fabrics, especially for materials that don’t take to traditional dyeing methods. That said, I still believe in the beauty and uniqueness of genuine tie and dye. One of my dreams is to create my own fabrics someday. I even had some training in fashion school back in India, which fuels my passion for this craft.