Inspired thread: the AGBADA

 Hi Y'all. I am back with a new article for our series: Inspired thread. Today, I will discuss one absolutely beautiful garment called AGBADA. 

But what is an Agbada? It is a four pieces outfit originated in Nigeria. In fact, it is traditionally worn by men in the Yoruba ethnic group in Nigeria. The Agbada  is essentially made of an oversize flee flowing robe, a vest, a pair of pants and a hat. Agbada actually means :”Voluminous attire” and is represented by the flee flowing bubu (as we call them in Senegal). The Bubu can be short or ankle length and it usually comes with some type of embroidery. 

There are two types of Agbada, the casual ones made with light fabric such as coton, and the formal ones made with more expensive and stiff material such as weaved fabric. The formal ones are worn during events and ceremonies such as weddings. They often represent status and class as well because they are made with expensive fabric and intricate embroidery. 

The origin of the Agbada is a bit contreversial. It is said that its origins could be traced to the Middle East, but also with the nomads such as Berber and Fulani ethnic groups. Those groups travelled throughout Western Africa, trying to convert people to Islam. And with this conversion came the adoption of their clothing style. As it is often the case in fashion, it was an up down processus. The Chiefs and Emirs were the first to wear those robes. And little by litle, the locals adopted the clothing style but using their own material and weaving methods. 

Vintage post card showcasing a type of Agbada

Vintage Postal card of A chief of Shendam in central Nigeria. 

Although the Agbada is men's clothing, it has taken over women's fashion. I have to admit that there is a certain swag women have when they appropriate men's clothing. And it is also the case with the Agbada. Women wear it the traditional way with pants, but also as long robe. 

Agbada with pants 

Agbada bubu style

I personnally have taken inspiration from the Men's Agbada style to create my signature Bubu called SOXNA for my own brand. 

Bubu SOXNA in denim and coton

Althgough the Agbada has been inspiring Senegalese fashion in recent years, I would also like to point out that we do have our own Agbdada style for men called Nietti Abdou, which is a three piece outfit with a bubu, a shirt and matching pants. It is interesting because in my research, I cam across this article that says that the Agbada could possibly found its origins in Senegal considering the spread of the Jihadist movements across West Africa in the 19th century. If this is true, then it will be a fashion full circle.  Our local tailors have been influenced by Nigerian fashion. You can find several bubus inspired by the Agbada in local markets and even with local designers. 

Nevertheless, I think that even though the Agbada has become a trend in Senegal, it represents tradition for Nigerians, and it will be everlasting for them. 

Sources:

https://guardian.ng/life/embracing-the-agbada-movement/

https://www.fashionunlock.com/origin-various-types-agbada/

https://adireafricantextiles.blogspot.com/2011/02/agbada-embroidered-robe-traditions-in.html